Vintage fashion is having a moment – and its popularity looks set to continue, as we all become more aware of our impact on the planet. From archival red-carpet looks on our favourite celebrities to Princess Beatrice reworking the Norman Hartnell gown once owned by her grandmother on her wedding day, we have never seen second-hand fashion be so in vogue.
As a nation, the UK buys more clothes per person than any other country in Europe – and around 300,000 tonnes of used clothes are burned or buried in landfills each year, according to Greenpeace. This has a huge impact on the environment, and we should all do better in making more responsible shopping choices. By choosing vintage, we are able to give clothes a new lease of life – and we are making use of what’s already available, rather than opting for something brand new, which ultimately results in more waste.
Much like the celebrity world, shoppers are getting an appetite for second-hand fashion. The use of the search term "vintage" has more than doubled on fashion shopping app Lyst in the past year alone, with designer brands such as Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier being especially popular. This is making its way into the bridal industry too, with interest in vintage wedding and bridal dresses jumping up 39 per cent year on year.
Brides who do want to go down this route have also never had more choice. Secondhand designer specialists like Vestiaire Collective, Farfetch Pre-Owned, Mon Vintage, 1st Dibs and Hardly Ever Worn It all make shopping online for vintage fashion easier than ever, while there are also a whole host of amazing vintage stores dotted around the UK too.
A.N.G.E.L.O Vintage Cult
Dolce & Gabbana
Oscar de la Renta
1940s slip dress
It is worth noting that being responsible doesn't stop at shopping vintage, as brides are choosing to rent second-hand pieces too. "Bridal rentals have continued to receive significant interest on the By Rotation app,” founder Esh*ta Kabra-Davies tells me. “Our ‘Something Borrowed’ collection has received an increase of 700 per cent views year on year, which we imagine will grow further given the staggering number of weddings planned this summer."
"With our Marylebone pop-up store offering bridal and bridesmaid appointments, we've had many brides come in to try and ultimately rent out vintage wedding gowns from us."
If you plan to follow this growing trend, hoping to be more environmentally responsible for your upcoming nuptials, then follow our tips below for finding that perfect vintage wedding dress.
Don't be afraid of small imperfections
Part of the beauty of vintage is that every piece has a previous owner and interesting story. That said, with it comes smaller imperfections that you don’t get with brand-new pieces. When shopping in-store at vintage boutiques, make sure to ask about the fabrics and how easy it is to clean if there are any stains or marks on the piece – sometimes all an item needs is a freshen up to feel brand new.
"When you have invested in a new second-hand item, start off with washing the garment," explains Frej Lewenhaupt, CEO and co-founder of Steamery Stockholm, a care brand that works to extend the lifespan of garments.
“Always follow the instructions on the care label or, if it’s a delicate material, you might have to hand wash your new treasure," he advises. "Make sure to wash the garment, remove pilling, cut off loose threads and steam it. You could finish off with using a discreetly scented fabric spray to give the garment a fresh scent."
Shopping online is a little trickier as you can’t get a real feel for a piece, so take extra time to read the small print when buying vintage online.
"Make sure to read the description of the dress thoroughly to determine the condition. Any tears, marks, or stains might be difficult to fix or dry-clean," notes Erin Gunn, private client stylist at Farfetch.
Size up and find a good tailor
"An important thing to note is that vintage sizing typically runs smaller than regular clothing, depending on the decade," explains Gunn. "So first measure yourself accurately and pay special attention to the sizing measurements online."
She adds: "Trust in your tailor, not many people can buy off the rack without alterations. Sizing up means it's much easier for your tailor to take something in than to have to release fabric."
Take inspiration from Princess Beatrice and upcycle a gown into something new that better suits your taste and style. The royal chose to add puff sleeves and removed the underskirts and bubble hem, replacing them with a silk trim.
Keep an open mind
When Molly Whitehall first got engaged, she knew she wanted something vintage. "I love vintage clothes and loved the idea of finding a one-of-a-kind dress that has a story and has lived a life before me," she told us. "Vintage felt like such a special and unique option for a wedding dress."
Whitehall, who found her dream dress from Mon Vintage (which you can rent here), notes that it’s important to keep an open mind. "Try and embrace vintage for everything that it is – unique, special, full of character and story, sustainable," she says. "It may have its imperfections but that is all part of its unique charm and story."
"On the morning of my wedding when I put it on, it made me think of who might have worn it in the 1930s and I imagined who she was and what her wedding day was like," she recalls. "The small imperfections are what makes it unique and gives it its story. That’s the beauty of vintage."
Michele Cote also opted for vintage on her big day, going for a colourful dress from the Seventies, and echoes Whitehall’s advice: "Keep an open mind for what you want when it comes to going for vintage since everything is one of a kind, it can be fun to find different colours and challenge the definition of what a wedding dress means to you. I found my dress from 1st Dibs, which is a great place to look for inspiration."
Consider non-bridal options
Just because you’re on the hunt for a vintage wedding dress, it doesn’t mean you can’t expand your search outside of bridal to find the one. Researching different eras and finding out what styles you like can help make your search more successful, rather than generally searching 'vintage wedding dress'.
"Searching key terms of styles you might be looking for such as crochet, lace, Seventies-style romantic dresses, or designers like Grès and others you might like, are all great ways to discover styles that aren’t necessarily meant to be for weddings but will work," advises Alice Hebrard Lemaire, vintage expert Vestiaire Collective.
"Expand your search into a broader range of vintage pieces that could work as a wedding outfit," she says. "I’m getting married in a YSL rive gauche trousers and blouse ensemble from 1971, which was part of the ready-to-wear collection and just happens to be white, but it’s more importantly, elegant."
"I would also recommend not only looking for labels, but also for handmade pieces. Until the Eighties and the increase of ready-to-wear, a lot of people were either sewing themselves or working with couturiers to create unique looks, in very nice fabrics, so they are worth looking at."
